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Coffee plants growing on a plantation near Xinglong, home of China's oldest coffee culture, a short drive inland from Wanning, Hainan
Surf China Journal · Food & Culture

Xinglong coffee & the Wanning food guide

China's oldest coffee culture grows in the jungle an hour from the wave pool. Between surf sessions: morning markets, boat-to-table seafood, lobster noodles, and chocolate made from local cacao.

Published August 27, 2026
Read Time 6 min
Grown Here Coffee, cacao, pepper, coconut
Signature Wenchang chicken, lobster noodles

Every surf trip has a second story, and in Wanning it's told at the table. Hainan is the only province in China that can grow real tropical crops at scale — coffee, cacao, pepper, mango, coconut, lychee — and most of it never leaves the island. What you'll eat between wave pool sessions isn't a version of Chinese food you've had somewhere else; it's dishes that only make sense when the ingredient grew a few miles away that morning. This guide covers the four experiences worth planning around: the morning market, the seafood table, the Xinglong coffee plantations, and a chocolate workshop that starts with a cacao pod.

Xinglong: where China's coffee culture quietly began

A short drive inland from Wanning sits Xinglong, a small town settled in the 1950s by overseas Chinese returning from Southeast Asia. They brought coffee plants, cacao, and Nanyang-style cooking with them — a separate culinary lineage you won't find on the mainland. It's why Hainan has a coffee culture older than most of China's: Xinglong was growing and roasting its own beans decades before the first café opened in Beijing.

Visiting a plantation is the opposite of a museum tour. You walk the rows, pick a cherry, and watch it roasted — then drink the result a few steps from where it grew. It pairs naturally with the rest of a cuisine and coffee day, and it's the kind of afternoon that makes a surf trip feel like travel rather than just sessions.

The lobster on your plate was probably alive this morning, the coffee was picked three miles from here, and the chocolate bar started as a cacao pod down the road.

Start at the morning market

If you want to understand how this island eats, get up early once. Wanning's morning market is where the whole island actually shops: fishermen unloading the night's catch, stacks of tropical fruit you've never seen, pepper and chili piled a foot deep. Go with a local — we'll arrange it — and leave with breakfast. It slots neatly before a mid-morning pool session; check the surf calendar and build your day backwards from your wave.

Morning market in Wanning, Hainan — locals shopping for the night's fresh catch and piles of tropical produce
The morning market · Wanning, Hainan

What to order: the Hainan table

The island's signature dishes are built on freshness rather than fire. Wenchang chicken is Hainan's most famous export — the original behind the Hainanese chicken rice found across Southeast Asia. Coconut hotpot swaps the usual chili broth for fresh coconut water, and it's the local classic you'll crave after a day in the water. And then there are lobster noodles — boat-to-table, from the bays around Shenzhou Peninsula, near where the golfers in your group will be walking China's best links course.

The quieter dishes are where a guide earns their keep: we book the places locals actually eat, not the ones with picture menus. Most sit within an easy drive of the resorts at Riyue Bay and Shenzhou Peninsula.

Lobster noodles made with fresh-caught lobster from the bays near Wanning — a signature Hainan seafood dish
Lobster noodles · boat-to-table, Wanning coast

Fruit, pepper and the rest of the pantry

The supporting cast deserves a mention. Hainan's pepper is piled a foot deep at the markets, and the fruit is a rotating cast of mango, lychee and coconut in whatever form the season allows — the mango and coconut desserts alone are worth saving room for. Because so little of the island's produce leaves the island, much of what you'll taste here simply isn't available on the mainland, let alone abroad. It's the quiet argument for eating your way through a trip: you can order a wave off the pool's menu any day of the week, but this table doesn't travel.

Bean to bar: chocolate from Hainan cacao

Here's the one nobody expects: Hainan grows cacao. A small chocolate maker near Xinglong runs a two-hour workshop that walks you through every step — pod to paste to tempered bar — and you leave with chocolate you made from beans grown down the road. It's the best rainy-hour insurance on the island, and an easy win with kids on a family wave pool trip.

A food day, at a glance

SunriseMorning market walk with a local — the night's catch, tropical fruit, pepper and chili by the crate. Leave with breakfast.
MiddayLong seafood lunch — Wenchang chicken, coconut hotpot, lobster noodles at the tables locals keep to themselves.
AfternoonXinglong coffee plantation — walk the rows, pick a cherry, watch it roasted, drink it where it grew.
SunsetBean-to-bar chocolate workshop near Xinglong — two hours, pod to tempered bar.
FitAvailable as a half-day add-on — build one experience in, or all four, around your booked pool sessions.

How it fits your surf trip

The beauty of a wave pool trip is that sessions are scheduled, not hoped for — so the rest of the day is genuinely yours to plan. A food day works as a half-day add-on around your surf blocks, and pairs well with the island's other layers: the Li culture and village life inland, or an ocean day at Riyue Bay's point breaks when the season delivers. Getting here is the easy part — 30 days visa-free for U.S., Australian, NZ, UK, Canadian and many other passports, with direct flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Haikou; details in the getting here guide.

Tell us what your group likes to eat and we'll shape the day around it — browse the trip packages, read more on the journal, or reach us at hello@surfchina.co or WhatsApp +8613893402173.

Good to Know

Eating in Wanning — FAQ

Does Hainan really grow its own coffee?

Yes. Xinglong, a small town a short drive inland from Wanning, was settled in the 1950s by overseas Chinese returning from Southeast Asia, and they brought coffee plants with them. The plantations are still there — you can walk the rows, pick a cherry and watch it roasted — which is why Hainan has a coffee culture older than most of China's.

What food is Wanning and Hainan known for?

Seafood pulled from the bay that morning, plus the island classics: Wenchang chicken, coconut hotpot and lobster noodles. Hainan is the only province in China that grows real tropical crops at scale — coffee, cacao, pepper, mango, coconut, lychee — and most of it never leaves the island, so the ingredients on your plate grew a few miles away.

Can I fit a food and coffee day into a surf trip?

Easily. A half-day add-on covers a morning market walk, a long seafood lunch and an afternoon at a Xinglong coffee plantation, and it slots around your booked wave pool sessions. We shape it around your group and book the places locals actually eat.

Can you really make chocolate in Hainan?

Yes — Hainan grows cacao, and a small chocolate maker near Xinglong runs a two-hour bean-to-bar workshop that walks you through every step, from pod to paste to tempered bar.

Keep Planning

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Fresh fish landed that morning on the Wanning coast, Hainan — boat-to-table seafood near Riyue Bay
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Come for the waves.
Stay for the table.

Tell us your dates and what your group likes to eat — we'll line up the pool sessions, the market walk, the plantation and the tables locals keep quiet.

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